August 21, 2025 (Thu.) - Witches Gulch, Otis' Pet Retreat.
Today was all about exploring Witches Gulch—and giving Otis his own little retreat while we did it.
Around noon, we dropped Otis off at the Pet Retreat, which we’d spotted when we first arrived in Wisconsin Dells—it’s less than a mile from our campground. But thanks to GPS mischief, we ended up on a long, winding detour that spit us out at a traffic circle near a golf course. When the GPS cheerfully announced “You have arrived,” we were nowhere near a pet retreat (unless the golf course had a secret dog spa). We turned around and found the place easily by following the actual signs. Go figure.
This was Otis’s first overnight away from Kirk. He’s done doggie daycare before, but never a full night. He was scheduled for a bath and nail trim, which he definitely needed. Upon arrival, Otis seemed to think he was at the vet—he tried to make a break for it—but ultimately went back with no fuss. Good boy.
By 12:30 PM, we were in town buying tickets for the Upper Dells boat tour, which includes stops at Witches Gulch and Stand Rock. The tour lasts about 2 hours and 15 minutes. With Lynn’s motion sickness history, we came prepared: Less Drowsy Dramamine, Sea Bands and her anti-nausea medication (from her vertigo bouts). The ticket system is flexible—you can board any boat departing every 45 minutes—but we ended up waiting about 90 minutes before finally boarding. We snagged seats on the upper deck for fresh air, which helped a lot.
The guides were great—they reminded everyone to keep their original seats when returning to the boat after each stop. That little detail made a big difference, reducing the stress of scrambling to reclaim your spot. Much appreciated!
The ride along the Wisconsin River was gorgeous. Witches Gulch was a highlight—towering sandstone cliffs and winding rock formations that felt otherworldly. The second stop, Stand Rock, featured a dog named Benny who leaps across a 5½-foot gap between rock towers. Impressive! Lynn ditched the Sea Bands mid-tour—they were digging into her wrists—but the Dramamine did its job: no seasickness!
We snapped tons of photos, but honestly—they just don’t capture the magic of being there in person. And as luck would have it, a guy in a bright yellow shirt managed to photobomb nearly every shot. Somehow, we ended up right behind him at both stops! Oh well… just part of the adventure and a funny little detail we’ll always remember. It was cute to see him there with his grandson though.
The tour cost $80, and each stop had bathrooms, concessions, and souvenirs. It was very crowded, though—so packed that it was hard to pause and enjoy the views. The narrow ramps were one-way, so you had to keep moving.
By 4 PM, we were back on land and starving. We found a highly rated Mexican restaurant in Baraboo via Yelp, hoping for crispy tacos. Sadly, they didn’t even serve them!! Lynn settled for Birria tacos, which were flavorful and had a slight crisp to them. Kirk’s burrito was mostly rice and beans, and the chips and salsa tasted store-bought. Not our best meal.
Back at the RV by 5 PM, Lynn started feeling super sleepy—turns out “Less Drowsy” Dramamine isn’t so “less.” The adrenaline from the tour must’ve worn off, and she crashed hard, sleeping from 5 PM to 9 PM, waking just long enough to shower and go back to bed. That nap turned into nearly 15 hours!
While Lynn snoozed, Kirk napped, set up the gazebo, had dinner, and watched TV. Around 2 AM, he heard strange noises and went outside to investigate—only to find nothing. Turns out the noise was inside the RV, not outside. Just another night of restless sleep, which is becoming a theme. Now he has to find the source of the noise.
Despite the sleepy ending, it was a fantastic day with spectacular views. If you’re ever in Wisconsin Dells, Witches Gulch is a must-see. Just maybe skip the tacos—and don’t trust the GPS.
Weather – Beautiful with clouds and some sun. It was somewhere in the low 70s. Low humidity.
Traffic – None.
Food – Nothing to report.
Notable – The Witches Gulch – Upper Dells Boat Tour.
